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The textile: A 16th century Italian,
probably Lucca, length of raspberry and ochre silk lampas made into
a
table runner. Woven with a curvilinear lattice of stylized acanthus
leaves and flowers enclosing two-
handled vases containing bouquets of flowers and crowns, typical motifs
of the period. Edged with an 18th
century metallic galon/trim, more than likely from a vestment church
garment, with a meandering stylized
ribbon interspersed with flowers, back with a matching raspberry colored
cotton lining.
Condition: This piece is comprised
of three pieces, quite common since this fabric more than likely came
from a dress. I’ve shown in what looks like a run but it’s
actually the ground silk weave. Silk lampas gets
its design from a slightly raised or float weft that makes the pattern.
What you’re seeing is some of the silk
weft missing but you still have the silk ground, not an imperfection
simply age. There are two dime
size black spots that I’ve chosen to leave alone. The lighter
coloring on the metallic galon/trim comes from
being folded, the parts are lighter from not being exposed to air which
tarnishes metal.
A little history: The Renaissance (French
for "rebirth"), was a cultural movement that spanned roughly
the
14th through the 17th century, beginning in Italy in the late Middle
Ages and later spreading to the rest of
Europe. This “rebirth” is why you’ll see so much ornamentation
using plant life and flowers, symbols for
rebirth.
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